Mile 4003 Day 7

On Monday night we found a great mountain bike and camp site per recommendation of the local bike shop in Missoula, Montana. We spent the afternoon at a coffee shop and hanging out in the college town. On the way into Montana we drove near Flathead lake and decided when we hit the lottery, that is where we will live. We stopped and took a quick dip in the freezing 50 degree water. Outside of town we stayed at Lake Como, a man made lake with a great mountain bike trail surrounding it. The camping was primitive, but we were able to take a "cold" swim in the lake to clean up. Unfortunately, there was a group of young kids camping next to us who kept us up during the night. We were happy to return the favor at 7am the next morning with loud music, slamming car doors, and a lot of talking. It started to rain when we left the site, so the evil side of me hopes they got wet! We made it to our friends in Hailey, ID early in the afternoon. We are happy to have some down time and a bed to sleep in.

Mile 3033 Day 6

Today we had the entire day in the park. Sean left in the morning to ride up to Many Glacier, which is in the very North of the park. There is only one access road to that area. Sean realized that is where all the “hardcore” backpackers stayed and no trendy tourists. He saw a grizzly and two cubs high in the mountains and said the views were spectacular. I choose to go to Logan pass and do an easy 3 mile hike so we could return to our base at the same time. I took the park shuttle to Logan pass and was disappointed to see the entire area covered in snow. In fact, this has been one of snowiest springs they have ever had. Logan pass is the only road that goes through the park and it opened last week for the first time this year. I saw numerous people attempting to do the hike, but I choose not to. First, I didn’t have my hiking boots or walking sticks, and second the line of people walking straight up hill without any tree line reminded me of the crowded peaks of Mt. Everest as people slowly make their way to the peak. I was not interested in being around so many people! So I waited, for what seemed to take forever, for the shuttle bus. I returned three hours later frustrated and irritable. I hiked along a trail by our car and enjoyed one of the many fast, cold flowing streams to find my center. After we joined up we both took showers, for the bargain price of $1.25 for 8 minutes, and ate at the park inn. A young girl about 6 or 7 and her mother were in the shower area (there was only 1 shower) and as I waited she told me she hadn’t taken a shower since Friday. I mentioned it may have been 3 or 4 days for me and she said Mommy, “can you believe she hasn’t taken a shower in that long!” It was a good laugh and I certainly agreed with her. Luckily, we have been taking what Rosie kindly refers to as a “whores bath” everyday. Showers are a luxury here. I have happy to have regular toilets, running faucets, and drinking water most days. We decided lunch would be our main meal today. We try to only pay for one meal a day and eat the rest out of the cooler, and yes, sometimes we eat more than one PB&J a day. Then we got back in the car to visit the other side of the park, almost 43 miles. The drive was spectacular and rugged. When we stopped at the Logan pass visitor center it was 5x as crowded as when I had visited in the morning. We got our picture taken at the continental divide sign and were off. The congestion and crowding intensified as we drove on. We realized that most people must enter from the West (since it is close to the interstate) and drive to Logan pass then turn around. We felt fortunate for staying on the East side with less people and more solitude. We ended the day with a 4 mile hike to Avalanche Lake. Before our hike we were able to secure a campsite at the Avalanche campgrounds and it was nice to not have to drive to the trailhead. The hike was enjoyable walking along a fast flowing water fall until the lake; however, the trails were extremely crowded. When we returned to the campsite and ate our delicious turkey sandwiches (I am very envious of camp fire meals) we had enough time to make another interpretive talk in which the ranger discussed the culture of the local Indians. The mountains in this area are called by the Indians as the backbone of the land. They come to the mountains for visions. I can certainly understand how these mountains could talk to you and reveal your destinations in life. Tomorrow we are doing a long 8 mile hike early in the morning and then driving to South Montana. I am looking forward to seeing friends and driving less; however, feel a sense of loss as we leave. I hope to return one day and spend more time in the backcountry.

Mile 3029 Day 5

We left Roundup, Montana this morning (Saturday) after getting a great night sleep and down home hardy breakfast at the local Busy Bee Café. There was even a drive through espresso shop where cowboys could be spotted riding up on their horses for a cup of Joe. It took us about 4 hours to drive to Glacier National Park. We went through the town of Billings, which is an Indian reservation. It was sad to see the poverty that this culture has sustained. It’s one thing to read books about Indian troubles, but quite another to witness first hand the devastation these people have endured as the Europeans settled the West, and one we struggle with as we visit. We try to be respectful, not stare, and respect their sacred mountains. Glacier is one of the most spectacular places I have ever seen. Words can not describe how magnificent and majestic these mountains are. Often we don’t think they even look real. We have been fortunate to have incredible weather with highs in the mid 70s and lows in the 40s, with clear blue skies. Let’s hope this trend continues so we don’t have to try our rain tarp out in the middle of the night! We entered Glacier through the East side called St. Mary’s. We camped in the Rising Sun and were able to secure a camp site. You can see from the picture below we had a million dollar view out our tent door. A short hike is all we had time for before sunset. The ranger recommended St. Mary’s falls and Virginia falls. Once again we were amazed at how we had most the trail to ourselves. The views of the lakes, mountains, and falls were breathtaking. After returning to the campsite and eating another cold dinner of lunch meat and chips, we went to an interpretive talk at the camp amphitheatre. It was great to see a young female ranger leading the talk. She discussed the relationship humans and bears have had over the past 200 years ending with how we coexist with them in the park today. Of course the talk ended with safety tips about encountering bears. There are approximately 250 grizzlies and 500 black bears in Glacier not including the deer, moose, mountain lions, and mountain goats. As you may know I don’t have a strong fear of bears, but more of mountain lions. Nevertheless, it was good to be reminded about all the extra safety precautions. It was exciting to realize that very few places on this earth allow you to encounter so many wild animals and we feel lucky to be at such a place.

2667 Miles Day 4

Thursday night as we laid in the tent we heard animals forging around in the woods. The campsite owner warned us of the mountain lions in the area, but assured us there were enough deer to keep them satisfied enough to avoid humans, but just to be safe not to walk around at night. So when the sounds intensified and snorting started we became concerned. Sean thought it may be a black bear, a critter we can coexist with; however, the mountain lion visions danced in my heads late into the night. I was thankful to see the sunrise and the tent, and me, intact. We saw a large herd of mule deer in the morning and figured that is what we heard, or at least we can convince ourselves of that. Friday morning Sean went for a rode ride in the mountains and I stayed at the campsite to put on the finish touches of a journal article due Monday. We left by lunch and traveled almost 400 miles through Wyoming into Montana. The trip on HWY 90 proved to be a challenge. The wind was gusting up to 50mph as we drove 75mph (the state speed limit). Outside of Sheridan, Wyoming the far left bike rack was ripped off the car. Luckily the bike fell off the back and we were able to pull off the road. Thankfully it was Sean's mountain bike and neither of our road bikes. The bike was unharmed; however, there is a dent in the car and now new cargo in the VW. We stopped in Sheridan and the bike shop called Yakima. There will be a new rack waiting for us in Haily, ID when we stop to see friends. Until then we have no extra space in the car and have to maneuver around a dirty mountain bike to get food. All of this adventure has taken a tool on us and we decided to get a hotel room. I know, I know. I am no longer in my 20s and can handle the gypsy lifestyle as I once could. We found a $45 room in Roundup, Wyoming. This is a little ghost town, but the accommodations are nice. We even have wireless Internet! The manager has 2 golden retrievers that made us miss our woofs. Check out the room, it's so 1970's! I know Caroline is the only one who could truly appreciate the character. I have given in and am happy to have a King size bed, a bathtub, and may even shave and blow dry my hair! The domesticated life has taken over. The other occupants of the Hotel pass the time sitting outside their rooms in plastic chairs provided by the hotel. Tomorrow we have a long drive to Glacier National Park. We have to arrive early to get a campsite. Let's hope we make it!

2278 Miles Day 3

Today, Thursday 7/10, we had a few fiascoes! We had a great night at the Badlands and enjoyed our interpretive show at 9pm in the outdoor amphitheater; however, the family camping next to us set of their car alarm twice in the middle of the night. Lovely! Then I wake up after Sean and as I drag myself out of the tent I notice the entire contents of the car are on the ground...at like 6am! He proceeds to rant and rave about losing the key to the bike racks. I spent another 1/2 hour searching over in case he had missed them. Soo...we drove into Rapid City and called a lock smith. The funny part was the only bike locked was Sean's road bike. The locksmith picked it for a bargain of $10! We stopped at the local bike shop to locate the best local mountain bike trail. Just out of town was a sweet 12 mile loop in the Blackhills. Considering how little sleep I am getting and the long days in the car, my legs were not happy when I started the ride. I warmed up though and couldn't get over how beautiful of a day it was! Despite the beauty, the thermometer rose to the upper 90s and started to roast me. I had the bonk of all bonks about 3 miles from the finish. The only thing keeping me going to the weight of legs on each pedal strong, that is if I was on the biking and not walking! It was embarrassing and horrible! I kept telling Sean to ride to the car and I would find him. He said he was concerned about my ability to do so and stayed with me. I think I averaged about 1mph the last mile. We drove down the mountain and saw Mt. Rushmore then through Custer State Park thinking we find a campsite by a lake. Custer State Park is BEAUTIFUL; however, everyone else thinks so too. There were no vacancy's. Take a couple with no sleep, a bonking hungry Melissa, and at a splash of Weddell and Huston we have a problem! Luckily, we found a private site off the main road and are happy to report we have showers and a laundry facility! We head to Montana tomorrow and Glacier on Saturday.

2067 Miles Day 2

Today was a long day in the car. We drove over 10 hours to reach the Badlands. It was well worth the long journey through the baron lands of South Dakota. We had a great hike that ended at sunset and saw 4 deer. Tomorrow will be mountain biking in the Black Hills.

1517 Miles Day 1

We left Indiana around 10am. Thanks to Mom for a great dinner at the Olive Garden the night before we left; however, the heavy dinner made it impossible to do any late night packing. Once on the road we remembered what we forgot, which included the tent rain cover in SC, the bike pump, laundry detergent, and my rain jacket. NICE! The miles went fast and we decided to try to hit a group ride in Iowa City, the home of the University of Iowa. It was a typical group ride with about 30 guys, no girls, and a lot of testosterone. We started the ride with dark clouds looming above. The group rode away from the storm in an attempt to stay dry, but to no avail. We turned out of town on a country road straight into a head wind with sheets of rain drenching us. Unfortunately, I got dropped and Sean had to come back and drag me in. We met a guy who had lived in Carbondale during the 1908s and was friendly enough to direct us back to our car. I find cyclist in the back of the pack to be the friendliest and most helpful, a scenario Sean has never had to experience. Needless to say it was a rough ride! Iowa City is very progressive with sidewalks and bike paths laced throughout the city. Iowa is a smoke free state and has wireless at all rest stops. Beautiful country with progressive ideas…a nice surprise! We stopped at a Lowe’s to pick up a tarp in case another storm rolled in overnight. We camped at a roadside RV park, happy to have a shower and laundry area considering we were covered in road dirt and looked like salt licks. We head to the Badlands in South Dakota next. It will be a long day of driving, but the good news is gas is around $3.78 for super unleaded due to higher ethanol content. The money we save on gas will wash out considering the drag of 4 bikes on the roof.